Different Types of Prints is the Heritage of India.
Our Proud Country has represented lots of craft and art Indian handlooms are one of them. India is host to a wide variety of textile arts and different types of Prints. Celebrated all over the world and applauded within the nation, the handicrafts sector in India has been one worth boasting about. Different regions boast different textures, styles, and techniques and each has a different method along with a unique output. Each has a distinct style that is easily recognizable when worn.
This article will elaborate on different kinds of printing and fabric dyeing techniques in India that deserve to be preserved, promoted, and appreciated.
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Bandhani
Bandhani is a Different Types of Prints
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Bandhani is a tie and dye method practiced mainly in the states of Rajasthan, Gujarat, and parts of Uttar Pradesh. The word Bandhani is derived from the Sanskrit word Banda which means “to tie”. It features patterns like dots, stripes, waves, or squares formed by first tying small portions of the fabric at intervals with continuous thread to form interesting patterns, and then dyeing it. The most popular Bandhni making centers are in Gujarat, Rajasthan, Sindh, Punjab, and Tamil Nadu where it’s known as Sungudi. Bandhani print is often found on the Gharchola sarees & dupattas worn by women in Gujarat and even on the men’s turbans from Rajasthan. The basic shades of Bandhani print are red, yellow, green, and blue. However, the print can be adapted to any color. The most commonly used fabrics for bandhani prints are silk, cotton, cotton silk, chiffon, georgette, and various other fabrics.
Batik
Batik is a Different Types of Prints
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Batik is an ancient art that uses wax and dyes to create visual magic on fabrics. It is believed that the term is a derivation from the word `Ambatik’ which when translated literally stands for a piece of cloth with small dots or writing with wax or drawing in broken lines. Batik holds its traces in various parts of Egypt, Indonesia, the Middle East, and India. Popularly identified by little dots, Batik is an ancient wax dyeing technique. This craft holds a special place in the hearts of Indian artisans as well, who for ages have been designing and giving this craft a taste of their own. Because of the enormous scope of designing patterns, This craft provides artistic freedom to the craftsmen. Artisans of Cholamandalam near Chennai are said to be mavens of this craft. Batik is also produced in parts of Gujarat, Rajasthan, West Bengal, Andhra Pradesh, and Madhya Pradesh.
A Batik creation involves 3 basic steps – waxing, dying, and scraping ( removing). Overall the process is one where firstly the wax is used for creating designs on certain pre-defined areas on the fabric. Secondly, the fabric is dyed and then the wax is removed by scraping or by boiling the cloth so that the wax peels off. The result is a beautiful piece of cloth with some very unconventional designs.
Bagh
Bagh is a Different Types of Prints
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Bagh is a unique style of block printing on handloom fabrics, the name coming from its origin in the current form in Bagh village of Madhya Pradesh, India. The printing technique is said to have originated after the Khatri population decided to migrate from Sind and settle near the Bagh River. The designs have been inspired by paintings of the Taj Mahal, flowers, mushrooms, and others. The process includes the use of geometric designs and bright colors, and the chemical properties of the river are used to the maximum benefit to obtain the most unique shades. From cotton, silk, chiffon to bamboo chicks, this process can be carried out on a variety of fabrics. The fabric after removal of starch is made to undergo what is known as the “Bhatti process” which includes boiling, drying and subsequently printing.
Kalamkari
Kalamkari is a Different Types of Prints
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Kalamkari is an ancient style of hand printing that is done on cotton or silk fabric with a tamarind pen used with natural dyes. The word is derived from a Persian word where ‘Kalam’ means pen and ‘Kari means craftsmanship. The art involves 23 tedious steps of dyeing, bleaching, hand painting, block-printing, scratching, cleaning and many more steps. The motifs of Kalamkari are mostly flower, peacock, paisley along with divine characters of Hindu epics like Mahabharata and Ramayana. These days this art is done to create Kalamkari Saris.
The process involves 23 steps. From the natural process of bleaching the fabric, softening, sun drying, preparing natural dyes, hand painting to the process es of air drying and washing, the entire procedure requires precision and an eye for detailing. This art primarily uses Earthy colors like Indigo, mustard, rust, black and green. Natural dyes are used to paint, these colors are extracted from natural sources with no use of chemicals and artificial material.
Ajrak
Ajrak is a Different Types of Prints
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Ajrak is the perfect combination of handloom textiles and vegetable dyes. The word Ajrak is derived from an Arabic word “Ajrak” which means “blue” as blue happens to be one of the principal colors in Ajrak printing and it is one of the oldest printed fabric known to man. Ajrak found in Sindhi; Kutch, Gujarat; and Barmer, Rajasthan in India. It displays special designs and patterns made using block printing by stamps. Common colors used while making these patterns over the years, Ajrak have become a symbol of the Sindhi culture and traditions.
Ajrak printing is a long process involving many stages of printing and washing the fabric over and over again with various natural dyes. The entire process can take up to two weeks resulting in the creation of the beautiful eye-catching pattern of the arak.
Dabu
Dabu is a Different Types of Prints
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Dabu block printing, also known as mud resist printing, is a traditional Rajasthani craft. The mud resists technique prevents the color from entering the parts that are covered, giving the design a layered effect. Calcium hydroxide, also known as chuna in Hindi, naturally pounded wheat chaff and gum are the main ingredients that go into making the mud resist. The paste is applied onto a fabric that’s laid out on a flat or a running table and block prints are applied. The print gets its name from ‘dabana’ meaning ‘to press’. The cloth is then thoroughly washed to wash off the mud and reveal the prints. This community is famous for producing vibrant fabrics that are lovingly woven into ghagras, cholis, turbans and so much more.
Gold and Silver Dust
Gold and silver dust is a Different Types of Prints
A traditional form of printing, ‘Chandi Ki Chhapai’ or ‘Silver Printing’ is a delicate way of embellishing clothes or fabrics. Also called ‘Varak Gold or Silver Leaf Printing’, this kind of printing uses varaks made by flattening gold or silver into a thin paper-like consistency. These thin sheets of silver are also used to garnish Indian sweets. In ancient times, it was hand printed onto flags, royal tents and other insignias of power to reflect the status and prestige of the possessor. It is a popular embellishment in holy shrines and temples today. The technique of varak block printing is extremely rare today and there are only two printers who do this in Jaipur. Today, silver and gold leaf printing can be seen on rich Chanderi sarees and dupattas, done by some of the finest craftsmen in the country.
Bagru
Bagru is a Different Types of Prints
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Bagru block printing has been alive for centuries creating some of the best Indian prints. A tediously long process that involves creating wash resistant prints, the craft boasts of master craftsmen who have been dedicated to it for over 30 years now. Exacting, but ultimately beautiful, the Bagru block printing technique is all natural, right from the dye to the wooden blocks and is celebrated all over the world for their simplicity and effortless elegance.
Ikat
Ikat is a Different Types of Prints
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Ikat is actually a dyeing technique rather than a print or pattern. This popular art form involves a dyeing technique that is used to dye the yarns before weaving them into a fabric. Ikat patterning ranges from the simple star or checks patterns to full figurative imagery done in many colors. Such ikats, especially when worked in silk, are among the most costly and prestigious of textiles. It uses a resist dyeing process, quite similar to tie-dye, to create patterns on textiles. This technique uses either the warp or weft to weave a pattern or design. When both warp and weft are tie-dyed then it is called double Ikat. Individual yarns or bundles of yarns are bound with a tight wrapping in the chosen design and then dyed to create the desired pattern. A characteristic of Ikat is its blurriness as it requires immense skill on the part of the craftsman to line the threads in place. The less blurry it is, the more time, effort and skill has gone into it and the more expensive it is. Ikat is popularly woven in Gujarat and Telangana.
Sanganeri
Sanganeri is a Different Types of Prints
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Sanganeri, a kind of block printing that originated in Rajasthan, adorns home decor materials as well as apparel. This craft developed over the ages and saw contributions when people from neighboring states like Gujarat migrated due to wars. A hand printing technique which involves laying out of the material on tables and then printing using blocks with intricate designs. The fabric is marked before, so that symmetry of design is maintained. Beautiful floral designs with buds, flowers, leaves, mangoes and even jhumkas sometimes are part of the detailed designs on the blocks.
Leheriya
Leheriya is a Different Types of Prints
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A simple dyeing technique popular in Rajasthan, it results in striped textiles in a huge variety of bright colors. Cotton or silk cloth is subjected to resist dyeing.
In earlier times, five different colors were used, and natural dyes were the chosen form of colors. The technique is named after the pattern it forms, that is, waves, which is called Leheriya in Rajasthan. The cloth is tied and folded in a manner that the color is applied only in a particular pattern on the textile.
By Manorama Rajshree
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